Spending significant time atop mighty peaks requires a certain degree of exhibitionism. The end of April is typically when the upper mountain experiences temperatures of 20 degrees below zero. A little bit of suffering is expected in such a setting. Still, things can quickly spiral out of control without proper protective clothing and heating apparatus.
My team and I were prepared for extreme cold as we flew into the Ruth Gorge. While we could not reach the peak, we did experience a wide range of Denali’s weather. I was confident in the equipment I brought up the mountain since I had tested it thoroughly for two winters in our hometown, seeking the finest equivalents of Alaska (primarily the lowest temperatures, fiercest winds, and most vulnerable campgrounds the Rockies could offer). When hiking up Denali in 40 mph winds and negative temperatures, I used the following gear to stay warm and dry:
Therm-a-Rest Polar Ranger -20 Sleeping Bag
Conditions vary dramatically at night, even in a region where the sun rarely fully descends over the summer. The heat that the sun burnt into the snow and rocks throughout the day disappears quickly when it only glides all over the horizon and slips behind neighboring peaks.
To have a good night’s sleep even when it’s freezing and rainy, you’ll need a sleeping bag like the Polar Ranger (created with the help of Polar adventurer Eric Larsen) with 800-fill down insulation (that doesn’t soak with a bit of moisture). Magnetic openings in the hood shielded my face from the cold, and the arm holes meant I didn’t have to unzip the bag to read in bed during a storm.
Therm-a-Rest NeoAir XTherm Sleeping Pad
When camping in the snow or on ice, two sleeping pads are superior to one. Your sleeping pad is just as important as your sleeping bag to keep you warm while you sleep. Even the most expensive down sleeping bag would be ineffective without a good pad. Most Denali climbers sleep on an inflatable foam pad that provides extra insulation.
With the XTherm’s insanely high 6.9 R-value (the rating for heat flow resistance, or insulation, is measured numerically; the higher the number, the more excellent the resistance to heat transfer), plus the Switchback’s additional 2, my total R-value is almost 9. Each pad can be folded into a tiny package (I carried the foam pad strapped to the side of my backpack, and the XTherm is about the size of a disposable water bottle). The XTherm is equipped with an inflating bag to facilitate its inflation in the low-oxygen environment.
40 Below Bottle Boot and Insulated Food Bag
The technical nature of our journey meant that we couldn’t bring along perishable food, so we made do with cook-in-the-bag dried meals. Using a stove like the MSR Reactor, which is windproof and uses very little fuel, boiling water was a breeze, but keeping it hot while we rehydrated our food was another story.
The 40 Below Insulated Food Bag is a neoprene pouch that keeps your food warm while rehydrating in the cook-in bags. These bags were designed for much milder conditions and shorter cooking durations. The entire item can be hung inside the tent with the help of a loop at the top, protecting its contents from being crushed or knocked over. Bottle Boots are used frequently on Denali to keep water from freezing. You should still carry water with you on extremely cold occasions. Still, the neoprene sleeve prevents it from hardening into a solid block of ice.
The North Face Summit Futurelight Belay Mittens
Overpacking is acceptable for only one thing on Denali: your handwear. I took along three sets of gloves to pick the best pair for the weather and still be okay if one set became wet. In contrast to my feet, my hands tend to get chilly rapidly. Thanks to the mittens’ split finger design, I kept using my hands even after switching out my thinner gloves for warmer ones midway through the climb. In this part of the Alaska Range, having confidence in your gear is essential. You’ll feel much more confident in your preparation if you carry warm gloves and know you can pull them out whenever you need them.
Patagonia Grade VII Down Parka
Despite the extreme cold temperatures that I knew I would face during my trip to Alaska, I only packed three outerwear options to prepare myself; a compact active insulator, a midweight synthetic puffer, and a massive parka. Each piece of clothing was carefully chosen, as I wanted to ensure I had enough protection from the cold while still feeling comfortable and not having to lug around too much bulky clothing. All these pieces of clothing provided me with enough warmth and flexibility to enjoy my time in Alaska.
The Grade VII’s large baffles ensured that the 800-fill down remained lofted and insulated to its fullest potential. The jacket’s long hem and large hood (compatible with my helmet) gave me practically instantaneous warmth on my trip. The elasticized side panels, cuffs, and snow skirt provided a snug, toasty fit while allowing me to wear additional layers when necessary.
Mountain Hardwear Compressor Pants
You will know how much you need a pair of puffy pants once you try them. They were a revelation during cold alpine evenings. They provide fast and considerable warmth when worn over ski bibs or climbing leggings (without removing boots, thanks to full-length side zips).
They were great for lounging in the Alaskan evenings or cooking in our group’s kitchen area. Because of their synthetic construction (with Mountain Hardwear’s trademarked Thermal.Q Elite insulation), they are not as compact as down. Still, they are more long-lasting when used for sitting or kneeling. The knee and seat fabric, made of 20-denier nylon ripstop, withstood repeated bending and sitting.
Scarpa Phantom 6000 Boots
Picking the right boots to take a trip to Denali might be challenging. On the lower glacier, daytime temperatures average in the forties, so you’ll need a single pair of boots that can keep your feet dry and warm in the extreme cold of summit day (up to 70 degrees Fahrenheit lower). I was also looking for a precise enough toe and outsole for more challenging rock climbing.
A 6,000-meter boot with 40 Below K2 Superlight Overboots was a good compromise between infinite warmth (and bulk) and some precision. The PrimaLoft Micropile and EVA in the Phantoms keep my feet warm on 90% of the mountain, and on the coldest days, I might slip on the neoprene overboots. Typical chilly weather doesn’t bother my feet too much. My climbing partner, who gets cold feet and hands, found a one-stop solution in the La Sportiva Olympus Mons, which have extra insulation and fitted over boots.
Smartwool Mountaineering Extra Heavy Crew Socks
Just like gloves, a sock’s effectiveness increases with quantity. Plan on them being wet and having to be dried out constantly, generally overnight, next to your chest in your sleeping bag. These fantastic wool socks kept their structure and didn’t smell, thanks to the woven arch brace and odor-resistant characteristics of merino. I only needed three pairs for a two-week trip, including one wrapped in a Ziploc bag for summit day.
The extra-heavy weight was required for the colder weather (I tailored my boots to accommodate them). Still, the airy, wicking merino stopped them from becoming utterly useless on milder days. When we decided to turn around, it was bittersweet to unwrap the summit socks that had kept my feet warm during chilly descents and wet ascents.
Feathered Friends Down Booties
While the Phantom 6000s feature removable and washable liners, I still found that they frequently became damp over the day, particularly on the bottom mountain, where the warmer temperatures caused my feet to sweat. The mushy snow soaked them from the exterior. Therefore, I made it a habit to remove them as soon as we got to camp and stopped digging. I left the shells in the tent vestibule and put my sweaty liners in my sleeping bag before slipping on my Down Booties. The detachable weather-resistant shell makes it easy to step outside to urinate or lounge in the cook tent without damaging the foot warmth provided by the 800-fill down lining.
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